Saturday, March 23, 2013

Florence: Day 4 (March 9th, 2013)

Enough procrastinating already! Today I woke up and went for a 4-mile run. I'm not really sure how long this run actually was, but I knew that I needed to get at least 45 minutes in to guarantee that it was a 4 miler. I ran down my street, past the Duomo, to the Ponte Vecchio, and along the Arno River. This is definitely the place to run; I saw a lot of other runners, even women. I was proud of myself for motivating after a week of solid eating.

My plan for the day was to visit the Uffizi Museum, which houses some of the greatest sculptures and paintings in the world. But I had a late start to my day, so I definitely needed to eat. There was a gelato place that I really wanted to try, called Vivoli, but I had a hard time finding it yesterday. This time, I managed to find it before finding a good place to eat, so let's just say that I had gelato for breakfast.

Upon entering Vivoli, I understood why this place was popular; their flavors are unique, and everything is made fresh that day. I chose the pear & caramel, and their pistachio. The pear/caramel was so good, the flavors so fresh, as if you just bit into a pear. Their gelato is also incredibly smooth (a side note: I tried to go back after dinner, but they were already closed). I had gelato in Florence at two other places, which were both really good, but Vivoli was by far the best.

I found this really cute ristorante just up the street from Vivoli, and the menu posted outside contained some Tuscan staples that I wanted to try. There were only a few people eating inside, and the waiter led me to a nice table by the window and next to a table of French couples. I ordered the ribollita (which means "reboiled"), a very common Tuscan soup that is hearty and warmed me up on yet another rainy, cold day.

Knowing that this is artichoke season and wanting to get my fill, I ordered risotto with artichokes. It was really good, but I was so full from the soup that I couldn't finish it. Finally, Florence has managed to beat my appetite, and that's no small feat.

My favorite moment of lunch was when the food arrived for the French couples. The man closest to my table ordered the Bistecca Fiorentina, which is definitely a large steak. But here at this restaurant, they actually make a portion size for one. Jackpot! I may just have to come back for dinner. I haven't been able to find a restaurant that serves this for one person. Anyway, while the Frenchman was eating his steak, and his friends were curiously watching, he called the waiter over and asked in English, "Excuse me, but can you cook 'dis fer longer? I do not like 'dis part that is uncooked." Classic. The waiter was really nice, but politely explained that this is how the steak is prepared. I couldn't help but giggle. As I was waiting, I told the waiter how funny that was, and that I may come back to dinner for the steak, as I have been unable to find a restaurant that will serve it for one. He immediately handed me a card with the restaurant's address.

I returned to the restaurant at about 9 that evening. The place was pretty much empty, but that same waiter seemed very pleased to see me. I started off with a beautiful plate of bruschetta; I know it's not tomato season, but the tomatoes still tasted good to me.

And now the Bistecca Fiorentina, a T-bone steak served with a side of roasted potatoes in rosemary. I haven't had a steak in a really long time, and I was really looking forward to this. I touched the top with my knife, and the meat sprung down and up. Yep, this guy was rare.

I normally eat beef cooked medium, but now I get it; when you have a good cut of meat, you'll ruin the flavor by cooking it too much. The beef was juicy, the potatoes a hearty compliment, the glass of Chianti a rich vessel for holding and blending the meal together. What a great last meal in Florence.

I profusely thanked the waiter, who knew I was here to eat, and to run the marathon. He said that he would look for me on television, and hoped that I got the "1st position" or "1st place". I laughed and told him that I just hoped to finish!















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