Florence: Day 3 (March 8th, 2013)

I was really excited for today, since it was my first cooking class. I got out the door late and found the location of the school, called Florencetown. They organize both walking tours of Florence as well as cooking classes. I quickly downed an espresso at a nearby cafe and then joined our group. There were only four of us: Chris, a private chef from Long Island, Ariana, recently married and living for a few months in Florence with her Scottish husband (a finance guy who can work from anywhere), and Ariana's mother, Janet, visiting from Wisconsin.

Our chef and tour guide, Andrea, led us to our first stop, the main supermarket in Florence, where we would buy ingredients to prepare our meal. First, he took us to one location, in which a woman talked to us about olive oil, parmesan cheese, and balsamic vinegar. We got to sample everything, too! I bought some of the olive oil, which was so green; it's the "First press", meaning that it is when the olives are first passed through the press. The flavor is the strongest, and the oil is used as a topping for bread, bruschetta and salads, as opposed to cooking. For the cheese, naturally the more it's aged, the stronger and more delicious it is; 30-month parmesan tastes incredible. However, it's nearly impossible to find in the States. We also got to taste various ages of balsamic vinegar, up to 15 years. It is so delicious, but also very expensive (80 euro). I passed on this and instead bought some truffle oil.

Black truffles can be found throughout the year, and while still expensive, they are still affordable. But white truffles are only available for about one month, and are very expensive.

At another part of the supermarket, we got to sample some pastries, which you dunk in sweet wine that was incredibly strong. We also sampled some mustard seasoned with truffle (delicious) and probably the most exceptional apple juice I've ever tasted. The woman leading this round of tasting wished us a "Happy International Women's Day"; I explained to her that International Women's Day was founded in the U.S., and that we don't celebrate it; isn't that pathetic?!

Andrea had us stop at a few more places before leading us to the cooking school, which was just around the corner. He told us that we signed up on a good day, because normally there are 20-25 people in one class! The school has one nice long table, and we each had our own workstation on one side. Andrea instructed from the other side.

We made tiramisu, pappardelle, and ravioli. Andrea showed us some cutting and chopping techniques, none of which was new to me, but great to know that I was doing something correctly. Andrea's assistant, Julio, also helped us out, especially when it came to rolling the dough and filling the ravioli. He's half Italian and half Peruvian, so sometimes I would ask him questions in Spanish. Making the pasta was my favorite part, and the main reason why I signed up for cooking classes here. It's not difficult, but definitely takes time. Julio even showed us how to make tortellini! Very similar to ravioli, but instead you use a smaller square of dough, use less filling, fold into a triangle and then wrap the two outer points together and seal.

Andrea showed us the steps to make a traditional bolognese, which I can't wait to try and make at home. He also made a vegetarian sauce and a butter/sage sauce. Then we got to sit down and eat, with wine included. They had prepared some bruschetta, which was delicious. And even though I was excited to eat the pappardelle and bolognese, my favorite dish was the ravioli in butter/sage sauce. So simple, too.

As we ate our tiramisu (I couldn't finish it), Andrea presented us with certificates. This was a really wonderful experience, and I highly recommend it; the whole class took about 5 hours and cost only about $115, and I walked out with recipes for three different kinds of pasta, 3 sauces, 1 filling, 2 appetizers and 1 dessert. Quite a bargain.

I definitely rested for the remainder of the afternoon, and at 7:30 made my way over to da Tito for dinner. I wasn't sure how in the hell I was going to have room for more food, but once I walked into the restaurant and could smell what they were preparing, I was instantly hungry. The host totally remembered me and led me to a table in the back room, which quickly filled up within 20 minutes of my arrival (7:30 is a bit early for an Italian dinner). Most of the restaurant's patrons that evening were tourists, but there were definitely some locals, too.

I ordered half a carafe of chianti and started with pumpkin gnocchi in a gorgonzola sauce: creamy, heavy, and very comforting. I really wanted Bistecca Fiorentina for my main dish, but the waiter said that the portion was very large and for two people, so I opted for the beef sirloin in artichokes. That definitely didn't disappoint.

Da Tito has signs everywhere, stating that you are not to ask for well-done meat, because they will not cook it for you. Beef here is served rare to medium-rare, at best. I admire that. It's also a very fun place; the waiters joke around with both the patrons and each other. Some of the waiters were wearing "Happy Women's Day" T-shirts. After the meal, I waited in line to pay at the front, wondering why you paid at the front and not at the table like at all other restaurants. I quickly learned why: because before you leave, they serve you a glass of limoncello, a very nice touch. They'll even drink with you! I highly recommend this place; it's great food, and a great experience. Reservations are essential.